Make a cushion cover on the Overlocker (Serger)

Today at Ringwood Sewing Centre I finished off my new Overlockers 101 with a hands on class. This was at the request of my students, and our mission was to make a cushio cover with a zip in the back and piping around the edges. 

The entire project was seen on the Overlocker with the Piping foot.  We used both a three thread narrow overcast and a four thread overcast stitch to make our cushion covers.

If you'd like to give it a go, here's what you need:

3 x squares of fabric 2" bigger than your square cushion insert, so a 14" insert would need 16" squares of fabric.

A cushion insert

A zip at least 3" longer than your fabric

Piping - enough to go around the cushion PLUS 4"

Four cones of polyester thread

Overlocker (serger with a piping foot)

1/4" double sided tape - or clips, but all my students found the tape easier

General sewing supplies

Begin by cutting the fabric.

Remove the bottom metal stopper from the zip, use the tip of scissors, a screwdriver or pliers to do this.

Press one square of fabric in half, right sides together.

Place a strip of tape along the raw edge.

Press one side of the zip onto the tape.

Place a second strip of tape on the long edge of the zip. And stick down the other raw edge. Your zip is now enclosed in a tube of fabric.

Thread your Overlocker (serger) for a 3 thread narrow overcast, with the piping foot attached.

Beginning at the base of the zip and position so that the coils of the zip feed through the piping foot, sew.

You should be able to stitch right to the end, however if your zip is too short you will run into hherritage zip pull, which is bad. Instead stitch off the side, open the zip, and flip the work ver so you can begin from the other end to complete sewing in the zip.

Cut down the fold of the fabric.

Open the fabric and press with an iron.  

Open the zip carefully (don't slide the zip pull off the coil) to test that your stitching hasn't caught the zip coil.

Press another square of fabric in half. Open out, and Place this square of fabric on the table, right side up. 

Place the piece you just stitched.  Use tape to stick the zip to another square of fabric. 

Place another strip of tape onto the edge of the zip, and fold the square of fabric over the stitched piece so that the raw edge is against the tape of the zip.  This will mean that the already stitched piece is inside the new tube.

Stitch this side just like you did the first one.

Cut along the fold and press.

You have finished the back of your cushion.

Trim the remaining square and the back to form a Square.

Set the back to one side.

Lay the front square of fabric on a table, right side up.

Place strips of tape around the cushion, right on the edge.

Prepare the piping by pulling out some of the cord, and trimming off about 1". Don't trim the fabric, just the cord. Trimming out the cord leaves you with about 1" of piping that is flat, and This is necessary because we will create a heat overlapped finish where the two ends meet.

Now press the piping onyo the tape, you need to remember three things,

1. Start 1/3rd of the way along the edge,

2. Begin with the flat section twisted off the end of the fabric (see pic below)

3. Only the flange of the piping should be stuck to the tape, not the corded section of the piping.

Above: notice that the two ends of the piping crisscross and overlap!

As you tape the piping into position, use a pair of sharp scissors to cut a 45 degree angle through just the flange of the piping. This will enable you to bend around the edges.

When you reach the end, remove about 1" of cording from inside the piping so that you can overlap the piping ends as shown in the pic above.

Now place more tap around the edges, so that the backing can be positioned.

Before you stick down the backing, half open the zip.

Make sure you have right sides facing.

Trim away any excess from the zip, because your Overlocker will work better if all four sides are flush.

Thread your Overlocker for 4 thread overcast.

Now stitch each of the four sides leaving 3-4 inches of chain stitch so you can finish off.

Finish off the ends by either knotting the tread ends, using a bodkin and stitching them through the Overlocker edge, or using frays top and glueing the ends to prevent them unravelling.

You are done!!

Happy sewing - Michelle

How to Make A No Sew Wreath with your AccuQuilt Go!

The Wreath that inspired me.

The Wreath I made!

I was browsing through the Christmas Shop of a leading department shop in my local Mall the other week and was super inspired by the wreath (above) that was for sale.  Being a sewist I took one look and thought "I can make that!".

I already had beautiful Rayon Felt at home, so a quick visit to a craft shop in the same mall to buy a Polystyrene Wreath was all that was required.  The whole project took just over an hour and a half, so this makes a great quick project, and because there is no sewing it would be a fab one for kids to make.

If you'd like to make your wreath you will need:

• Polystyrene Wreath to the size you want,
• Scraps of Felt, I used three shades of green and two shades of Red.
• Scraps of fabric to cover the wreath.
• A supply of plain dressmakers pins.
• AccuQuilt Go Cutter and the Circle Die.

Start with the wreath.  I used scraps of patchwork fabric that was already cut into 2 1/2" wide bias strips.  They were left over from some quilt binding, and I always stash these scraps because you never know when they will come in handy.

No need to trim off the selvedge, just stick a pin into the strip of fabric to hold it in place while you wrap the wreath in the fabric strips.

Wrap the wreath until it is completely covered.  If you need to add in a new strip, just pin the end to hold it into position.

I didn't have enough of just one fabric so I used two in similar colour fabrics.

No get out your AccuQuilt Go! and Circle Die. Cut loads of circles.  I used the 2" and 3" size.

Now the fun really starts!

You need to fold each circle in half twice, as shown below ....

First Circle.

Fold once in half.

Fold in half again.  Then stick a pin through the corner.

 Once you have cut and folded a bunch of circles, start to build the wreath.  Don't over crowd the felt circles, because there is no need.  But you will need to fuss with them a bit to make them look good, by pulling them open a little.

I alternated the shades of green, and the red with no particular pattern ... just do whatever you think looks good.

I did find that the 2" circles were best on the inside of the wreath and on the outside edge.

Once you are done, pull the circles about until they look lush and full!

Add a ribbon to hang the wreath and you are done!

Michelle

Courthouse Steps Wall Quilt - A quilt as you go project.

I have just finished the wall quilt that I designed. The goal was to exclusively use the Westalee foot and the rulers from the starter pack.

To make things easier I used the Accuquilt log cabin die to cut the strips.     What a breeze!

Each block was pieced and made into individual quilt sandwiches which were then joined in twos before partially quilting them. They were then joined together in rows, quilted where possible before joining the rows. The outside sections were the last to be quilted.

We love our AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter.

The "lanterns" we're quilted with Wonderfil metallic thread.  Problems you say?  Not at all, as by using a thread stand and a thread guard I was able to avoid the twisting that often happens with metallic thread.

The lanterns were the first decorative quilting done on the quilt blocks using the spiral ruler in the Westalee starter pack.

The other rulers I used were:    

• the 12" arc (that came with the the foot)
• 4" arc,  
• circles on quilts wheel 36, 
• Spin-e-fex no. 4., 
• simple circle 2" (all of which are in the starter pack along with a clamshell ruler that I didn't use in this project.)

I designed the patterns on paper before moving to the quilt so I could audition 

Each white block in the centre of the quilt has a different design however to give the quilt some balance I pebbled all the background behind the motifs and around the outside I used the Westalee Spin-e-fex feathers 5 .5 and 7.5 rulers. 

More to come!

Jacqui

Joan's quilt. 1

I found my next project, Joan's quilt.

Let me explain about this special quilt. Sadly, Joan passed away a few years ago leaving behind this beautiful quilt that I now have the privilege to finish quilting. I have chosen WonderFil Frutti thread, colour FT35 for the top thread and light grey deco bob for the bobbin, I think that these colours will work well with all the colours in the quilt.  Joan had hand quilted some of the blocks but for some reason never got around to finishing them.  Who has time to keep doing this by hand? We have so many different options these days, I thought I could showcase them on this quilt. There are two decisions, which block to start on and which machine to use?

Isn't the fabric for the backing pretty?

You can still see the needle and thread where Joan stopped quilting.

Watch this space to to see the progress that I make.

Have fun creating,    Anne

Learning fill stitches to use in your quilting is fun!

Today we are looking at different techniques that can be used to "fill " areas in a quilt. Edge to edge quilting or an all over design involves quilting the entire quilt with the same design in a evenly sized and spaced design. Some times we may want to feature particular areas in a quilt and this can be done by quilting differently in or around this area. Art quilts often feature different fill techniques which compliment and accentuate the picture that has been created by the quilter.

Here are three commonly used fill stitches to give a go.

STIPPLING 

One of the most commonly used fill techniques is stippling, which can be done loosely in a meander style , often used to quilt the entire quilt, resulting is a fairly soft effect on the quilt. If you stipple more closely together you can feature an embroidery or block or appliqué.

Here is an example of a medium size stipple stitch used to highlight an embroidery .

Stipping around a machine embroidered design.  This quilt is on display in the shop.

Very small close together stippling is called micro stippling and will highlight an area also, here is a sample of different sizes of stippling

Examples of different sized Stippling

One thing to keep in mind when stippling closely together is the effect on the feel or drapability of your quilt. It is much stiffer the more densely it is quilted. Also beware when using fillers that are closely quilted, not to leave other areas  un quilted or sparsely quilted as this can create a quilt that may show distortion in these areas, particularly if it to be well used. This is less likely to be a problem if it for display only.  These factors apply to all sorts of quilting that is close together not just stippling.

There are no rules about stippling, it is a free motion technique that involves quilting in a wavy curvy design. It is one that takes some practice but is very rewarding to master and very useful in quilting, it often lends a sort of traditional look to quilts. A tip I learnt when starting is not to be scared to go fast, you will achieve rounder curves this way, and by practice you will find that your spacing becomes more uniform and even. Don't be put off if you don't get it the way you like the first time.

 I also used to sit with a pen and scrap paper and practice drawing stippling, it helps train your brain as to when you need to curve and to avoid doing a row of curves, you are aiming for a random effect. I have been asked what I picture in my mind when I start to stipple, I have to say if anything, I picture the edges of jigsaw pieces, the "holes" and "knobs" remind me of the shapes I want and they face every direction which helps with randomness. Above all don't give up too soon, keep practicing!!

PEBBLING 

Pebbling is another great filler which is fun and quite easy to do. 

Here the area is filled with circles or "pebbles" that nest against each other and fill the area. As the sample shows the pebbles can be different sizes or the same as you prefer. The trick to get them sitting against each other without any lines of stitching joining them , is that once you complete your circle, you retrace it until you find the right place to start your next one. This also requires some practice but don't be too worried if they are a bit messy to start with , they still look very effective anyway and again you will improve with practice!

This illustration gives you a better idea of the actual stitching lines of Pebbling some times you may only go a bit of the way around again, other times you may need to go most of the way again to find the right spot to nestle the next one in.

ECHOING 

Echo stitching is very effective as a filler and there is no limit to what you can echo or how you do it. It really involves starting with a shape and retracing it, a little larger each time until you feel it is time to start another "echo". One commonly used is a clamshell which is a nice shape to start on as it is a slightly elongated curve, fairly easy to follow as you echo it.

Using an Echo Quilting Foot can assist if you want all your lines to be equal distances apart.  

Echoing can be great for featuring a shape or design, or picture in your quilt, as seen in the quilting below.

This quilting is photographed from a quilt in our shop, where the quilting echoes around appliquè giving great texture to the quilt as the background is echoed and the appliqè really stands out.

It is important to note that all of these techniques and many more can be achieve equally well on a long arm machine on a frame, a sit-down long or mid arm machine or your domestic sewing machine. The key to success is to keep practicing. Keep your first practice pieces, as you get better they are good to monitor your progress.  

Have fun!

Pam

More E2E on the Prostitcher

Well I found my next quilting project, this lovely log cabin quilt.  I just love using the Prostitcher. Every time I program it, it just gets easier to use and I am getting quicker at settling everything up too. This time I went into the Prostitcher designs and found this lovely little E2E pattern called Blossom Cluster. Once I measured the top of the quilt in the middle (this is in case it's stretched) I adjusted the pattern so it fitted beautifully, I didn't even have to alternate the rows and it also didn't matter which was the top of the quilt, as the pattern looks the right way up whichever way you look at it. So  again a simple matter of setting the machine going and standing back until it finished the 2 rows and moving it on using the drag and drop function. I could get used to having this much fun while I work. So what will be my next project? Passing by?

 

Come in and see.

Have fun creating,  Anne

Kaleidoscope quilt looks great!

Hmm, how long has this kaleidoscope quilt top been sitting in a cupboard,unfinished. We have dragged it out, ironed it and quilted it on our Bernina Q24 with a large open type free motion quilting design and doesn't it look stunning!!

This quilt is fairly old, and we wanted to make sure it wasn't over quilted.  Over quilting can make a quilt quite stiff.

The open meander that I used means that the quilt will stay soft, and it looks cute on the back too!

This kind of simple quilting looks good and can be achieved on ANY machine!

It feels great to finish off projects and move on to new ones. If you find the prospect of quilting your quilts daunting, come in and have a chat, we have lots of ideas on how to quilt, styles of quilting, how to quilt on the machine you have, and quilting machines that we can demonstrate and which are set up to try. 

Go on drag out your stash of quilt tops and give it a go, hope to see you soon Pam

How to Make a Cute Little Girls Dress in One Hour!

The sun is shining outside and I was inspired to whip up this cute little girls dress from a kit that we are selling in the shop.  The dress is very simple to make because the designer has cleverly printed the fabric so that it looks like I have used two fabrics, one for the dress, and a separate fabric for the pleats and facings.  The truth is that the whole thing is a printed panel, all that is needed is some basic sewing skills.

Here goes .....

The kit comes in a very nice brown box, and contains the printed fabric in a panel, so begin by unpacking the kit and separating the instructions from the fabric.

Give the fabric a press to remove the folds from being packaged, and then using your dressmaking scissors cut out each of the pieces.  There is a front and back, two facings, and four straps.

I took the time to hand baste my pleats into the dress.  It can be done on the machine, but as I was attending a sewing group, I just took it with me and quickly basted it while enjoying coffee with my sewing friends.

I strongly suggest that you use some Best Press (fake starch) when pressing the pleats.  Pleats look great but only if they are nice and sharp, so starch, or the fake stuff is really important.

Use a chalk maker and a ruler to mark the dress so that your top stitching is the same length for each pleat.

I also recommend you buy yourself a top stitching foot, with a flange that ensures that you sew straight.  The flange sits beside the fold of the fabric, or edge (like with a pocket) and it makes the difference between a great finish and a amateurish job.  All brands of machines have these feet, some come with the machines, so just check it out.  I prefer a foot that allows me to adjust the needle position, so speak with your sewing machine dealer to choose the best one for your machine ... .naturally we can help you with the brands we sell.

Once the pleats are stitched down (according to the instructions) just continue to follow the steps to complete the dress.

I think it should take most sewers around 1 hr to make this dress.

This designer has three different dresses in her range, and they are all easy to make because of the pre-printed panel.  Why not make one today?

We have kits for all three in stock now.

This cute dress can can fit 3-12month old and is $32 for the kit. (two different fabrics are available)

These two Pillow Case dresses are available to fit sizes 3-5 and are $35 for the kit (two different fabrics are available)

This is the same as the dress I made, and is the Vintage Style Pleated dress.  The kit fits size 18 mths to 2yrs and is $32.  There are two different fabrics available.

If you would like to buy any of these kits, just give the shop a phone call 03 9870 0011 or shoot them an email and they will happily help you out, info.ringwoodsewingcentre@gmail.com.

Happy sewing

Michelle