finished graffiti quilt

As promised, the finished quilt...

  It's all about quilting

Jacqui

 

Couching on a domestic sewing machine

Hi everyone,

Couching on fabric has been around for a long time but it has now become mainstream in the quilting world.  Handi Quilter have made a set of couching feet for their mid and long arm quilting machines. However many of us do not have a long arm machine but would still like to include couching in our sewing projects.

A couple of weeks ago I decided to have a go using the couching foot that’s available for my domestic Pfaff Passport 2.0 sewing machine.

This foot attaches just like all the other feet and the machine is in normal stitching mode when using this foot. (ie. not in free motion)

I used a very small zig zag stitch to stitch down my thread /ribbon.

I first practiced in  straight lines then I decided to experiment in couching curves.

Quilt 1.

This quilt was my first venture into using this foot for curves.  I traced a pattern using the Westalee Ruler (Spin-E-Fex No 4 3.5”)

It was tricky going around these curves given the machine is not in free motion but I was reasonably pleased with the result. Heavy metallic thread was used.

Quilt 2.

Also using the metallic thread but this time I used a mandala made up of straight lines and large curves. Whilst doing this quilt I started to get the hang of going around the curves smoothly. I then filled several sections of the design which taught me to lay the thread next to previous stitching lines.

Quilt 3.

For this cushion I couched satin ribbon onto satin fabric having chalked the design using a Westalee ruler (Circles on Quilts Spinning wheel 7)

This would be a great way to decorate a ‘wedding ring cushion’ used in marriage ceremonies.

Quilt 4.

This quilt was couched with wool and this time I “free motioned” a design by smoothly turning the quilt sandwich every time I wanted a curve. The key to getting a reasonably smooth curve is to leave the thread/fibre loose and just allow it to gently feed through the foot with no pulling.

It's all about qulting.

Jacqui

Santa Sleigh FREE project

Hi Everyone,

The wreath posted by Michelle recently inspired me to haul out my Santa’s sleigh that I constructed about 15 year s ago. I thought it would be a good companion for the wreath.

I tried to find out the designer of the pattern but to no avail so I decided to design one of my own that I could share with you all.

Requirements List.

30 cm of forest green fabric

1 fat quarter of Christmas fabric

lots of cardboard for sleigh construction

30 cm foil jersey - silver. (used for skis and Santa bag)

2 m 40mm red ribbon

1m of 60 mm of Christmas ribbon

1 m 40mm forest green ribbon

1.3 m of approx 4 mm Christmas decorative cord

( I used double lengths of 1.5- 2mm and twisted them together as it was all I could find))

2m of approx 2 mm silver twisted cord

2m of approx 4mm white and silver twisted cord.

2 m of very fine silver cord.

2 large silver bells

scraps of Christmas fabric for presents.

Small amount of batting twice the size of template 2.

Hot glue gun

Spray adhesive

Strong wood glue

20cm of 10mm dowel -cut into 2 x10 cm lengths 

40cm of 5mm dowel. - cut into 2 x 20 cm lengths

Jewels for embellishment.

Silver paint.

 

Construction.

Cutting out the templates.

Cut 4 cardboard copies of  template 1.  Mark opposing sides of each pair.

Cut 2 cardboard copies of template 2.   Mark opposing sides.

Cut 4 cardboard copies of template 3.   Mark opposing sides of each pair.

Cut 2 squares of cardboard 10cm X 10cm.

Cut 2 rectangles of cardboard 10cm X13cm.

Cut 2 rectangles of cardboard 10cm x6cm.

Cut the 10mm dowel into 2x 10cm lengths.

Template patterns can be obtained from here.

Making the side panels.

Cut a piece of fabric that extends 1” around template 1.

Spray the adhesive following the instructions on the can. Stick together smoothing out any wrinkles.

Trim the fabric to within ½” of the cardboard and snip towards the cardboard to make tabs that you can then spray and glue down. (snip a V shape out so that you reduce the amount of bulk on the backside of the panel- something I forgot to do as you can see by the photo)

Repeat for a second panel making sure you mirror the side you stick the fabric.

Spray and glue these two sides together, weighing down with a weight to ensure they stick together.

Repeat for the second side panel using the other 2 cut outs.

Making the decorative side panel.

 

Cut out 2 pieces of batting the size of template 2.

Glue these to opposing sides of the two cardboard templates.

Cut out two pieces of Christmas fabric that are about ½” larger than the template.

Iron and glue these to the batting on each of the templates.

Clip into the cardboard and glue over as in the side panels.

Weigh down whilst drying.

Using the hot glue gun stick the Christmas panel to the side panel leaving a uniform strip around the top and sides.

 


  

Paint the 4 pieces of dowel with silver paint.

Making the skis.

 

Cut out 4 pieces of jersey foil that are about 1/2" larger than the templates.

Spray and glue the fabric on opposing sides of the templates.

Clip V shaped slits in fabric up to the cardboard and glue down tabs smoothing out the curves.

Spray two opposing pieces of the template and glue together to form one ski. Repeat for the second ski.

Weigh down whilst they are drying.

Using wood glue, glue the 20cm dowel along the bottom inside edge of each ski.

Using the hot glue gun, glue the very fine silver cord around the edges of the skis to cover up the join between the 2 pieces of cardboard.

(Note: If you wish you could make wooden skis using 3 ply or MDF.  Cut 2 of template 3 using a jigsaw and paint with silver paint. You will still need the dowel on the inside to allow for the decorative panel when in position).

Making the seat panels.

10x10 square.

Cover the first of these in green fabric.

Cover the second of these in Christmas fabric but when sticking down only stick 3 of the sides leaving the fourth free.

Stick these 2 squares together leaving the unstuck patterned side free.

10x6 rectangle.

Cover these rectangles in exactly the same way as the square above, leaving one patterned edge free.

10x13 rectangle.

Cover each of these in green fabric.

DO NOT STICK TOGETHER.

 

Lay these as follows:    10x6  10x13  10x10

Join them together by gluing the free patterned fabric onto the wrong side of the middle rectangle.

Glue the second middle rectangle over these flaps to cover them up.

Putting it all together.

Glue the white and silver braid around the edge of the decorative panel to hide any inconsistencies, tucking in the ends at the position noted on template 1.

Position the seat section between the two side panels as shown on the template and using the hot glue gun, glue in place . Glue the 10cm pieces of dowel as shown in photo.

Glue the 2mm silver cord around the edges of the side panels.
Position the skis so that the bottom of the side panel is flush with the bottom of the ski and glue in place. 
This is slightly tricky as it can be difficult to get the sleigh balanced.

Thread the two bells onto the Christmas cord.
Hold the two ends in one hand and find the centre of the cord.
Keeping a bell on either side of the centre, take the centre to meet the ends forming two loops each with a bell.
Glue the centre and the ends to the middle of the front bar of the sleigh.
Cut the 60mm ribbon in half and glue one edge on either side of the  Christmas cord.
Tie 1 m of each of the 40mm red and green ribbons over the Christmas cord and tie into bows.

Tie the other 1m of red ribbon to the back bar of the sleigh.









Using the silver jersey make a Santa sack. ( I had some green jersey foil so I used that as well)
Cut a strip of the jersey 38cm long and 32 cm wide. Cut 2 10cm diameter circles. 
Make a tube, sewing along the 38cm edge but leave a 2" opening. Keep wrong side out and sew one circle  at each end of the tube and turn to the right side. 
 











Place a 9cm diameter circle of cardboard inside the tube.  (You may have to bend the cardboard to do this) and push one end inside to form an open bag.

 

Using cardboard, make some cubes and cover with fabric and tie with cord or lace. These will be the presents in the sack.

Decorate the sleigh and/or presents with jewels of your choice.

 


















VOILA!

Your Santa sleigh is now finished and can adorn your Christmas table.

It's not always all about quilting

Jacqui

Free Demonstrations

Want to learn more about quilting? We have two great FREE Demonstrations at the Long Arm Centre this week.

November 19, Anne will amaze you with how you can use ProStitcher to quilt around shapes, such as applique's and machine embroideries when quilting a quilt on a frame using PRO-STITCHER. 

Saturday 21, Jacqui will share her tips for Grafitti Quilting. This form of quilting looks AMAZING and can be done on ANY machine.

No bookings, just come in between 10.30am and 1.30pm.
Long Arm Quilting Centre
42C Wantirna Road
Ringwood VIC 3134

Look whats new with WonderFil FabuLux threads

Today I have had fun stitching with the new FabuLux thread, just look at how it's made the dinosaurs pop,

The thread looks so different on the cone to when its stitched and with the randomly spaced variations, it stitches different every time. 

This is a sample of the new colours coming...

This thread would be fantastic for showcasing the thread, with the sheen, on contrasting fabrics. So many possibilities, limited by your imagination only.

Have fun creating, Anne

Graffiti quilting

Hi all,
Well, I was going to post information about a Christmas table centre piece this weekend but I became sidetracked  (a common occurance).

On Thursday I was surfing the net and found Karlee Porter of Handiquilter showing graffiti quilting. I love doodling and I have lots of rayon embroidery thread so I thought I would give it a go.
I first started doodling on paper.  It's a bit like "zen tangling on steroids" and  has the added value of being a great relaxer.
Start anywhere on the paper, create a design and then fill it in with patterns before moving onto an adjacent area and repeating the process. The patterns do not have to be related to each other although having some similarity in different parts of the design provide balance.

















Over the weekend I spent a few hours playing on my Handiquilter Avante midarm to create a quilt.
This exercise is a great way to learn to control your long arm machine when free motion quilting.
However, don't think you couldn't do this because you don't have a long arm machine. Using free motion on your home machine you could just as easily create a graffiti quilt of your own. If you have wobbles it doesn't matter as they are disguised in the overall design. It also allows you to practise your current designs and increase your quilting repertoire.

My graffiti quilting in progress.

I am going to add more colours as I work out from the centre.
Each quilt that is made is completely different although Karlee Porter does say that you tend to develop your own signature designs. If you would like to see some of Karlee's work just Google
Karlee Porter graffiti quilting images and you should see some of her work.

Once this quilt is finished I will post a photo or you will be able to see the finished quilt at The Ringwood Sewing Centre's - Longarm Centre in Wantirna Rd. Ringwood.

.........I will get to that Christmas table centre piece, so stayed tuned.

"It's all about quilting"

Jacqui

Make a cushion cover on the Overlocker (Serger)

Today at Ringwood Sewing Centre I finished off my new Overlockers 101 with a hands on class. This was at the request of my students, and our mission was to make a cushio cover with a zip in the back and piping around the edges. 

The entire project was seen on the Overlocker with the Piping foot.  We used both a three thread narrow overcast and a four thread overcast stitch to make our cushion covers.

If you'd like to give it a go, here's what you need:

3 x squares of fabric 2" bigger than your square cushion insert, so a 14" insert would need 16" squares of fabric.

A cushion insert

A zip at least 3" longer than your fabric

Piping - enough to go around the cushion PLUS 4"

Four cones of polyester thread

Overlocker (serger with a piping foot)

1/4" double sided tape - or clips, but all my students found the tape easier

General sewing supplies

Begin by cutting the fabric.

Remove the bottom metal stopper from the zip, use the tip of scissors, a screwdriver or pliers to do this.

Press one square of fabric in half, right sides together.

Place a strip of tape along the raw edge.

Press one side of the zip onto the tape.

Place a second strip of tape on the long edge of the zip. And stick down the other raw edge. Your zip is now enclosed in a tube of fabric.

Thread your Overlocker (serger) for a 3 thread narrow overcast, with the piping foot attached.

Beginning at the base of the zip and position so that the coils of the zip feed through the piping foot, sew.

You should be able to stitch right to the end, however if your zip is too short you will run into hherritage zip pull, which is bad. Instead stitch off the side, open the zip, and flip the work ver so you can begin from the other end to complete sewing in the zip.

Cut down the fold of the fabric.

Open the fabric and press with an iron.  

Open the zip carefully (don't slide the zip pull off the coil) to test that your stitching hasn't caught the zip coil.

Press another square of fabric in half. Open out, and Place this square of fabric on the table, right side up. 

Place the piece you just stitched.  Use tape to stick the zip to another square of fabric. 

Place another strip of tape onto the edge of the zip, and fold the square of fabric over the stitched piece so that the raw edge is against the tape of the zip.  This will mean that the already stitched piece is inside the new tube.

Stitch this side just like you did the first one.

Cut along the fold and press.

You have finished the back of your cushion.

Trim the remaining square and the back to form a Square.

Set the back to one side.

Lay the front square of fabric on a table, right side up.

Place strips of tape around the cushion, right on the edge.

Prepare the piping by pulling out some of the cord, and trimming off about 1". Don't trim the fabric, just the cord. Trimming out the cord leaves you with about 1" of piping that is flat, and This is necessary because we will create a heat overlapped finish where the two ends meet.

Now press the piping onyo the tape, you need to remember three things,

1. Start 1/3rd of the way along the edge,

2. Begin with the flat section twisted off the end of the fabric (see pic below)

3. Only the flange of the piping should be stuck to the tape, not the corded section of the piping.

Above: notice that the two ends of the piping crisscross and overlap!

As you tape the piping into position, use a pair of sharp scissors to cut a 45 degree angle through just the flange of the piping. This will enable you to bend around the edges.

When you reach the end, remove about 1" of cording from inside the piping so that you can overlap the piping ends as shown in the pic above.

Now place more tap around the edges, so that the backing can be positioned.

Before you stick down the backing, half open the zip.

Make sure you have right sides facing.

Trim away any excess from the zip, because your Overlocker will work better if all four sides are flush.

Thread your Overlocker for 4 thread overcast.

Now stitch each of the four sides leaving 3-4 inches of chain stitch so you can finish off.

Finish off the ends by either knotting the tread ends, using a bodkin and stitching them through the Overlocker edge, or using frays top and glueing the ends to prevent them unravelling.

You are done!!

Happy sewing - Michelle

How to Make A No Sew Wreath with your AccuQuilt Go!

The Wreath that inspired me.

The Wreath I made!

I was browsing through the Christmas Shop of a leading department shop in my local Mall the other week and was super inspired by the wreath (above) that was for sale.  Being a sewist I took one look and thought "I can make that!".

I already had beautiful Rayon Felt at home, so a quick visit to a craft shop in the same mall to buy a Polystyrene Wreath was all that was required.  The whole project took just over an hour and a half, so this makes a great quick project, and because there is no sewing it would be a fab one for kids to make.

If you'd like to make your wreath you will need:

• Polystyrene Wreath to the size you want,
• Scraps of Felt, I used three shades of green and two shades of Red.
• Scraps of fabric to cover the wreath.
• A supply of plain dressmakers pins.
• AccuQuilt Go Cutter and the Circle Die.

Start with the wreath.  I used scraps of patchwork fabric that was already cut into 2 1/2" wide bias strips.  They were left over from some quilt binding, and I always stash these scraps because you never know when they will come in handy.

No need to trim off the selvedge, just stick a pin into the strip of fabric to hold it in place while you wrap the wreath in the fabric strips.

Wrap the wreath until it is completely covered.  If you need to add in a new strip, just pin the end to hold it into position.

I didn't have enough of just one fabric so I used two in similar colour fabrics.

No get out your AccuQuilt Go! and Circle Die. Cut loads of circles.  I used the 2" and 3" size.

Now the fun really starts!

You need to fold each circle in half twice, as shown below ....

First Circle.

Fold once in half.

Fold in half again.  Then stick a pin through the corner.

 Once you have cut and folded a bunch of circles, start to build the wreath.  Don't over crowd the felt circles, because there is no need.  But you will need to fuss with them a bit to make them look good, by pulling them open a little.

I alternated the shades of green, and the red with no particular pattern ... just do whatever you think looks good.

I did find that the 2" circles were best on the inside of the wreath and on the outside edge.

Once you are done, pull the circles about until they look lush and full!

Add a ribbon to hang the wreath and you are done!

Michelle